I don't have a nursery near me but there are the big box stores (home depot, lowes, walmart) within reasonable driving distance. What is the best potting soil that I can get, given the store options near me? I don't have experience or knowledge in making own potting soil mix.

I need a basic idea on where to start (kellog amend, miracle grow, sta-green, burpee, Harvest Organic, etc.) even though each plant may require something specific or different.

I can drive further out to a nursery but that may take a week before i can make that journey (or i can order online possibly).

Recommendations please

Hi and welcome to NGA!

I use Promix BX that I order at Ace Hardware - 3.5 cubic bale and Evergreen Top Soil that I get at Lowes. I mix it 50-50.

I use Miracle-gro for everything. Available in a lot of renditions and always reliable and cheap.

I assume this is for houseplants (?). Miracle-gro is good. I prefer the regular type without the "moisture control". I think you will find that the Kellogg stuff will be too heavy, and the organics will become too heavy in a short time. However these two would be fine if you want to also mix perlite in their mix, one part perlite to around eight parts potting soil. Be sure you're using potting soil and not garden, vegetable or raised bed mixes.

No, never moisture control.

I am in Daisy's corner. I use Miracle-Gro with slow release fertilizer built right in as part of the mix.
I too use it and nothing else. I grow Dahlias, tomato's, petunias, and other annuals in it. Every year I need to top off my containers with additional soil due mainly the loss generated by the massive roots systems that I find are produced by everything that I grow in it. Then I turn it over a little and replant. I fertilize sporadically throughout the growing season but not until after July 1st.
My transplants establish easily, grow like crazy and I love the results. I have used it for as long as I can remember. Used it for plumeria, desert roses, Mandavillas, Addeniums, etc. in Florida with equal success. Container drainage is a MUST.

Miracle grow, and Sta-green have time release prills or nutrients that release up to 6month, Miracle grow is a peat base and Sta-green is a wood base potting mix. Both can burn plants because they release the nutrients with heat and water. Both soils have a pH of 6.5 to 7.0

Pro mix BX and Pro mix HP are two of my favorite mixes because they both contain Mycorrhizae and a starting charge of nutrients(360ppm). Pro mix is a complete soil-less mix and may need to be fed after a few weeks. Pro mix BX and HP have a starting pH of 5.5 and should be maintained between 5.5 to 5.8 for best nutrient absorption.

Pro-Mix MP Mycorrhizae Organik provides a potting mix for growers in need of an organic-certified, growing medium that delivers well balanced air/water qualities.

My favorite is Pro Mix for soil-less and Roots Organic for long term organic. Roots Organic has a starting pH of 4.5 and the water should be buffered a little with carbonates before using to keep the pH around 5.8.

oneeyeluke said:


...... the water should be buffered a little with carbonates before using to keep the pH around 5.8.

can you explain what this means?

I buffer my pure water with 2mls of Cal-Mag to 1 gallon of water. Calcium and Magnesium will help keep the pH stable when the pH is low.
The pH is very important because it allows the nutrients to become available. When the pH is too high some Nutrients become locked out, and when its too low, the leaves and roots get burned from the acidic state of the soil. .

When I say carbonates I'm mostly talking about calcium. No need to add cal- mag to tap water because the tap is is loaded with junk. I only use RO or RAIN water which I supplement with calcium in soil-less and some organic mixes. Knowing the pH of the soil is the difference between knowing what you are doing and not.

oneeyeluke said:I buffer my pure water with 2mls of Cal-Mag to 1 gallon of water. Calcium and Magnesium will help keep the pH stable when the pH is low.
The pH is very important because it allows the nutrients to become available. When the pH is too high some Nutrients become locked out, and when its too low, the leaves and roots get burned from the acidic state of the soil. .

When I say carbonates I'm mostly talking about calcium. No need to add cal- mag to tap water
because the tap is is loaded with junk. I only use RO or RAIN water which I supplement with calcium in soil-less and some organic mixes. Knowing the pH of the soil is the difference between knowing what you are doing and not.

I would not exceed playing around with ph too much as it can alter the soil microbes and macrobe activity.
I say if you are making an organic garden add worms to your compost. Compost can be broken down into bins as you add each layer of compost.
I would not keep on altering the ph too much as PH will come when you want an organic garden.
If you want a conifer garden for example as conifers need gritty soil with plenty of drainage.

There are some plants depending on what your garden soil is clay,loam or sandy.

Best to have a look at these three types of soils first.
And get an idea of what compost you are looking into.
Tropical gardens need rich soil darker soil with plenty of micro organisms.
Don't play around too much with chemical ph soil altering because it can bugger up your soil.

Rely on natural ph for example if you want an acidic garden add organic matter and worms. If you want alkaline add mushroom compost.
Also have a look at the micro nutrients in your garden first. Phosphorus,pottassium and nitrogen.
All three main nutrients for leaves ,fruit and stems and roots.

Knowing the pH of the soil makes the difference between someone that knows what they are doing, and someone that doesn't. The soil pH is crucial when it comes to nutrient absorption and when the pH is off just a little, it will lock out nutrients. I don't expect anyone who has not had training in Horticulture to know the value of knowing the pH scale and Nutrient absorption. .However it is very important in the Horticulture industry and it means the difference between success and failure.

The potting mixes you get form the big stores are made to be used with tap water and for the home growers and no need to monitor the pH. The Pro mix's and other large bale types like SunShine#4, are mostly used by the pros that monitor the pH in a greenhouse or commercial indoor setting. When "money matters", pH matters!!!!!

Here's what I use. For foliage and tropical houseplants that need to stay a little moist, I use Miracle Grow potting mix, without the extra moisture retention stuff. For succulents, cactus, and anything that needs to dry out more between waterings I use Kelloggs Palm Citrus and Cactus mix. Sometimes I mix in extra grit (perlite, pumice, gravel), especially for cactus.
Both Miracle Grow and Kelloggs balance their bagged products for optimal pH. I wouldn't worry about that at this point, although some gardeners do. If you have a plant that is particularly fussy about pH you can learn about that then, most houseplants are fine with the bagged mix, in my experience.
Always, for every plant, use a pot that has a lot of drainage holes in the bottom. This makes a huge difference in keeping plants healthy.
I think that most of these mixes are regionally formulated with local ingredients. What you get may be different than what I'm getting. If you want to try another product, check your store's website. I've ordered some specialty mixes that they didn't stock but could be ordered ahead for free in-store pickup.
Most important--it's OK to try different products to find out what you like and what works best for you!

The advantage to commercially formulated potting mixes is all the research someone else has already done for me. I needn't reinvent the wheel to get it all right. Nor do I have to be an expert to grow a beautiful plant.

My first concern is that you may be repotting unnecessarily. Indoor plants rarely need repotting and unnecessary repotting is the most common reason for a variety of plant problems including overwatering. Make sure your plants need repotting before you attempt it with any potting mix.

The basic ingredients of a good indoor potting include only peat moss, perlite, and lime. A variety of other "organic" materials are often added and they are not only unnecessary, but they often harbor pests and diseases. Indoor mixes should be soilless and not contain compost.

A good homemade mix is 4 parts peat moss, 1 part perlite and a little lime added in. Keep it simple and don't get too involved with chemical analysis.

I say soil enhancer and a great nitrogen base for organic soil.
Mix that in with blood and bone if you want an extra nitrogen booster.

The more nitrogen you have in your organic garden the more greener you plants will be and believe me they grow very fast with nitrogen in the leaves and stems.

But you also need to research what vegetables or organic plants you are growing and what can you do to improve the current soil.

Air filled porosity and drainage and water holding capacity is going to count for good healthy organic growth.
I say turn the soil over before adding fertiliser or blood and bone.
Turn the organic most natural fertilisers into broken down material in your garden.

And plant furrows for vegetables.
Add potting soil enhancer soil with the mix.
Happy growing days. 👍

oneeyeluke said:Knowing the pH of the soil makes the difference between someone that knows what they are doing, and someone that doesn't. The soil pH is crucial when it comes to nutrient absorption and when the pH is off just a little, it will lock out nutrients. I don't expect anyone who has not had training in Horticulture to know the value of knowing the pH scale and Nutrient absorption. .However it is very important in the Horticulture industry and it means the difference between success and failure.

Believe me many plants can just die for no reason and have short life spans because of the PH in soil can change as micro and macro organisms break down the soil exposing the plants to too many nutrients when some plants only need a certain amount. I studied this for years but there is way more to it then what we study or know.

As I was taught in school the nutrients do not balance the PH . It's the PH that balances out the nutrients together . Hydrogen is water as you may know peroxide in which I got to find out what peroxide means because I have no clue. Soil chemistry is amazing! But PH does mean Hydrogen peroxide in it's balanced form. But I seen so many deficiencies in plants and they end up dying for no reason at all and some people need to find out the exact reason why PH is so important for plants because without the proper balance of nutrients the plants can not adapt well in there environment.

So I came up with this method NPK and PH rating.
What it means.. the level of nutrients within the soil.
And testing the soil rating by % with a electrical conductor probe if they have one made. This computer is advanced because it tests all the PH and nutrient rating without applied chemicals like for example testing PH without chemically testing it.

This advanced probe tests also micro and macro activity in soil by percentage and tests micro and macro mass in soil and density rating.

And particle space in soil by millimetres size .
And ratio of electrical conductivity in soil to see how good it holds.
It also tests the percentage of macro nutrients and micro nutrients and trace elements and PH acid to alkaline and neutral level.

with Daisy. Y'all are trying to reinvent the wheel. Use the best potting soil available for houseplants. Determining your type of garden soil is easy. There are several simple ways to determine that at home. Compost improves all soils. Use low number fertilizers for both house plants and garden plants and use at half strength for houseplants. And then if you have problems, send a soil sample or plant sample in to your local extension agent for analysis. In many states this is a free service. Remember, K.I.S.S !