I'm looking for some advice on taking care of suspected root rot on my bird of paradise plant from some much wiser plant caretakers than myself.

I've had this plant for a year without issue, it gets about half a day of east facing sun through a window. I removed one of the four main stalks of the plant 4 days ago after noticing the stem was brown and soft and leaves from that stalk had been yellowing and curling. I had to extract and untangle the roots of that stalk from the others (I'm hoping this didn't cause too much damage) and I repotted the plant with some new soil in the same pot (cleaned the pot before replanting).

There are spots on the stems of the remaining three stalks of the plant and am wondering if this is root rot continuing to develop? I didn't want to disturb the rootball when repotting, thus a fair amount of the original (possibly infected soil) is still in the mix. Should I repot? Or give it more time to see if it pulls through before causing more stress?

Sharing photos of 1) the stalk I removed with root rot 2) the spots as they are today and 3) the whole plant as it looks today.

Appreciate the advice in advance!

It looks fine at the moment. I personally would not repot it. Especially since you just did it.

To divide birds, people often will slice the root ball making sure to keep the entire set of stems together.

What is at the bottom of this pot? I tell everyone which comes to my place, you are overwatering too much. I water my bird once a week at the most. Usually once every two weeks, but every plant is different. Also, in all of my plant pots, I tend to put grave/rocksl in the bottom. That way the water can easily drain out without the plant sitting in water. Do you take the plant to the sink or just water it in that place? I take mine to the sink every other week and give it a good water, let it drain for 15 mins (I do this with all my plants). Then put it back. It sprouts a new leaf about every month.

Thanks for the advice kyry! Your bird of paradise is looking awesome :)

I was watering in place (not in the sink) every 7 days with a pint-glass-and-a-half of water, but I think I might try to lengthen the period of time between waterings and give it a better soaking.

And I actually didn't put any rocks in the bottom during repotting after reading that using rocks to increase drainage is a myth (really goes against everything my mom has ever taught me, and I'm still second-guessing that decision haha).

The dying back of the stem you removed may have been caused by under watering or not enough light, not necessarily overwatering and root rot. White Birds are pretty hard to overwater if they are in good sunlight and they are not left sitting in water.

Root rot is really root suffocation caused when the soil is kept waterlogged and oxygen cannot penetrate to the roots. It is not a disease that spreads and does not warrant replacing the soil. It simply requires allowing the soil to dry out more. Not sure if this also contradicts your mother, but that is how it works.

Putting drainage material in the bottom of pots is an outdated and discredited practice and is not recommended. Proper drainage occurs when the pot is not too large, the potting mix is porous throughout and the pot has drain holes.

I think the best things you can do for your White Bird now is to improve the light and remove all the soil from the top surface until you start to expose some roots. After removing that excess soil, allow the top half-inch of remaining soil to dry before adding just enough water for the top half-inch to dry again in about a week. You will have to experiment a bit to determine the right amount of water.

The available light between the windows is much less than you realize. It is barely adequate, but your plant would do better if placed in front of one of the windows. This is a plant that prefers direct sunlight.

Thanks Will!

I have since moved the plant directly in front of the window and have scooped out some of the top soil (after reading similar advice from you on another post). I'm now trying to figure out the ideal watering amount and schedule.

The new growth that was developing before I removed the soggy stalk has stalled growing, but I'm hoping more light and proper watering will help it continue growing with time?

Appreciate your sage advice

Be patient as your plant will first have to stabilize before it can resume healthy new growth. Good luck!

WillC said:Be patient as your plant will first have to stabilize before it can resume healthy new growth. Good luck!

Well, things have embarrassingly gotten worse!

The one stalk nearest the one I originally removed because of soft/mushy stems is now showing the same signs of rot (?) despite moving the plant into direct sunlight (sits in front of the window all day) and sufficient drying between waterings.

New growth on the other two stalks has resumed, but they are leaning more and more out of the pot and I'm not sure how to correct (clearly my attempt to stake the other one did not work). What do I do about this failing stalk to keep the other two healthy?

I'm sorry it has not improved for you. The roots must have been pretty seriously compromised.

The growing tip on the failing plant has died so that plant will not recover. You can cut it down, but don't try to pull it out as that will tear the roots of the other plants.

There is one plant that looks healthy and seems to be putting out healthy new growth. That is a good sign! You might want to physically push that plant more to the upright vertical position to make it lean less. Press the soil down tight around the base of that plant to hold it in position so staking won't be necessary. The third plant is borderline and may or not make it. Watch for signs of healthy new growth as the best indicator of its future. It, too, can be pushed to the vertical.

Make sure you are not overcompensating and letting the soil get too dry.

To be honest, I find Bird of Paradise is not a good indoor houseplant. In its preferred environment it likes high humidity, good drainage, lots of light access to even full sun conditions.

Looking at your plant, it is suffering from poor light conditions. Insufficient watering is also causing its decline. Remember this is a high humidity plant, so it can take in frequent watering. But that being said, with insufficient light it is hastening decline since water is not being used up efficiently as well.

You could improve the soil, try to add more pumice to it. It likes a moist media, but it has to be well draining too considering it is growing in a cramped little area, that is not drying up efficiently either, which rots the roots in the end.

Kyry's area is a nice place to grow BOP, since San Francisco weather is always amiable and milder to plants.

We all have varying growing locations so sometimes you just got to find that particular thing to improve. In your case kdl_, the thing you can improve is the water drainage aspect and the light aspect. Position that plant at level to your east facing window. Raise that container higher, it wants to feel better warmth and light, and well draining moist media.

The White Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia alba) is an excellent indoor potted plant as long as it is kept in a sunny location and the soil is kept moist. It does not require high humidity. The one below has been indoors for 8 years in that location in a NYC residence that is desert dry in winter.

To me everything is relative to the growing area. That wonderful looking BOP in NYC has good windows. But that being said, it is growing way too big for the location. So for me, still not the best for indoor growing. Poor thing, it wants to get more light, the way those wide leaves are trying to catch as much light it can take.

It makes sense it has to be grown drier in winter, it would have died if it was kept it too moist and humid during winter period when light levels are much shorter, and conditons still much cooler than normal summer weather.

But in the normal sense of growing it, it needs better humidity and much more light than the indoors can provide.

Appreciate all the advice! I've cut down that dead stalk and have moved the plant to our terrace outside since the weather hasn't been too hot or extreme the last few days in NYC. Fingers crossed it's on the mend as the new leaf has opened up over the last four days, TBD about the other stalk.

Is there any harm in letting that dead stalk stay in the pot? I really don't want to repot any time soon since that stressed it last time, but longer term should I consider removing the dead portion?

Thanks again everyone

The owner of the plant is very happy with its appearance so it stays that way. Improved light, especially from overhead would certainly;y alter its appearance and make it grow even larger. Humidity would not.

Hi there,

My plant is relatively young - bought it a couple months ago. I usually water once a week about a cup or so. It gets about 2-3 hours of direct eastern (morning sun) and then indirect the rest of the day. It sits on my patio under cover and away from any drafts of wind. This last week I watered twice instead of once because I was worried it wasn't getting my enough water (the leaves seemed to just be curling in a bit).

Just noticed these brown and yellow spots. Is this root rot? What should I do? Thanks in advance foe any helpful tips!

Hi,
My first post on this forum. I had gotten this Strelitzia Reginae from a farm nursery and went to report and noticed a ton of fungus gnats, I believe. I opened up the roots to find necrosis on a fair but of root tissue. So I looked it up on San Francisco Gate forum and it said to cut it off with clean shears. I used a sharp blade which I bleached and doused in rubbing alcohol. I should've burned the blade to be sure but I didn't. After the surgery, I then let the root stock callus over for a few days. Repotted and separated them into 2 pots (there are 3 plants in all). But now they are declining, fast. Leaves curled edges browning, and they just look sad. I feel awful now to have done that rootwork. I'm pretty positive there was no bacteria on the knife but looking at these plants I'm getting worried. Could anyone help? Should I tie a garbage bag around them and let them humidity for a week or so? BTW they are in some Fox Farm Ocean Forest/worm castings/pasteurized sand/akadama/pumice medium.

@chantelleje - I don't know what a farm nursery is, but I suspect they are not familiar with handling indoor plants. They likely used outdoor garden soil that was contaminated with fungus gnats. That was an early indication that it should have been returned.

Necrosis is not a disease. It simply refers to dead plant tissue, the cause of which has to be determined. I suspect it may have been from lack of oxygen around the roots causing them to die prematurely. Excising the dead roots was inappropriate as there was no identifiable disease. The lack of proper sterilization is not the cause of the problem.

Your plants are now suffering from the damage done to the roots before you got the plant but also from the damage done to the roots during the cutting away of the root tissue and further aggravated by the separating of the plants. Finally, the roots should not have been left exposed to callus over.

All of the stress to the roots means that they are no longer functioning properly and that is why the leaves are curling and it may get worse going forward. Unfortunately, there is no simple remedy for the root trauma. Remove any loose soil or other material added to the top of the original rootball. The uppermost roots should be just barely covered. Then water it only when the top half-inch of the remaining soil feels dry to your touch.

At best, root recovery will be a very slow process during which time the plant may continue to decline. Keep it warm and give it lots of sunlight.

For future reference, be careful where you source your plants and be aware that online plant care advice is often inappropriate.

WillC said:@chantelleje - I don't know what a farm nursery is, but I suspect they are not familiar with handling indoor plants. They likely used outdoor garden soil that was contaminated with fungus gnats. That was an early indication that it should have been returned.

Necrosis is not a disease. It simply refers to dead plant tissue, the cause of which has to be determined. I suspect it may have been from lack of oxygen around the roots causing them to die prematurely. Excising the dead roots was inappropriate as there was no identifiable disease. The lack of proper sterilization is not the cause of the problem.

Your plants are now suffering from the damage done to the roots before you got the plant but also from the damage done to the roots during the cutting away of the root tissue and further aggravated by the separating of the plants. Finally, the roots should not have been left exposed to callus over.

All of the stress to the roots means that they are no longer functioning properly and that is why the leaves are curling and it may get worse going forward. Unfortunately, there is no simple remedy for the root trauma. Remove any loose soil or other material added to the top of the original rootball. The uppermost roots should be just barely covered. Then water it only when the top half-inch of the remaining soil feels dry to your touch.

At best, root recovery will be a very slow process during which time the plant may continue to decline. Keep it warm and give it lots of sunlight.

For future reference, be careful where you source your plants and be aware that online plant care advice is often inappropriate.

Thank you Will. Would it be wise to cut the dying stems off the plant or should I just leave it alone? I covered the plant to increase humidity but it seems that has made things worse. However, one of the plants that is doing the worst ended up shooting a new leaf. I understand plants do this when they're on the decline as last ditch attempt to save itself. So that's why I thought maybe to at least take off the worst stems so it can out its energy into the new growth. But maybe that's counteractive because it would also be dealing with more trauma from taking the dying stems? Anyway, they're under lights now and I'll just have to keep watch. In future, ill be sure not to do any unnecessary rootwork Thanks for your time.

Whether or not you remove dying leaves and their stems is an aesthetic choice. It will not have any effect on the overall health of the plant.

Dusting pandemic we moved and left our huge bird of paradise behind. It dried up completely. Is there a chance to revive the plant or it is gone?!

@Vizirova - How long has it been without water? Can you post a photo of it?