Post a reply

Avatar for eracet
May 25, 2021 4:49 PM CST
Thread OP
South Dakota
Around January February I decided to try to start some pepper plants from seed.
Got 3 packets, planted in potting soil and put them under regular lamps.
They were in small cups, and the tops where a clear cup to capture moisture.
Monitored them and many sprouted and grew some, kept them around 75 to 80 temp.

Eventually the ones that got larger , 3 inches, I took top off and started cycling the lights on a timer, about 7 hours dark.
Also during this time I got a UV light and cycling that as well.

Right now I have been making sure they have enough water and all of my plants are under the timed lights.
Seems that there growth as slowed. I did move a tester plant to the outside and it is just staying slighly yellow and not growing.
With all the plants I am making sure they have enough water, but trying to get humidity to them. Indoors is hard.

My tester plant ended up getting a red stem slightly after bringing it outside.

Not sure what is the best method for growth and is it too warm now to bring them outside?

Keeping them inside and replanting is an option. Just not sure what I need to do next . Or maybe just need to wait longer I dont know.
Image
May 25, 2021 5:09 PM CST
Name: Big Bill
Livonia Michigan (Zone 6a)
If you need to relax, grow plants!!
Bee Lover Lover of wildlife (Raccoon badge) Orchids Region: Michigan Hostas Growing under artificial light
Echinacea Critters Allowed Cat Lover Butterflies Birds Region: United States of America
I do not grow peppers but I grow tomato's, cherries and a large fruited variety. Zinnias and marigolds, daisies and basil underlights this past season.
I sowed on March 18, about 7-8 weeks before I can put them outside.
All were in 'seedling starting soil' and in 12" by 12" plastic flats.
Thumb of 2021-05-25/BigBill/bb9eb0
Orchid lecturer, teacher and judge. Retired Wildlife Biologist. Supervisor of a nature preserve up until I retired.
Image
May 25, 2021 5:19 PM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
Welcome!

Can you start my posting some photos?

What are "regular lamps" and why do you think the peppers need added UV light?
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
Avatar for eracet
May 25, 2021 6:15 PM CST
Thread OP
South Dakota
Thumb of 2021-05-26/eracet/9b7526


Thumb of 2021-05-26/eracet/f2cac8
Avatar for eracet
May 25, 2021 6:17 PM CST
Thread OP
South Dakota
I added the grow light because of a suggestion .They were just getting regular bulb type light and heat. I lowered the amount of lights , had 4 lights at first, now its the UV one and 2 regular bulb ones.
Last edited by eracet May 25, 2021 6:20 PM Icon for preview
Image
May 25, 2021 7:10 PM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
You need full spectrum lights (sometimes sold as "grow" lights, or bright white lights). Turn the UV light off. Some plants are adversely affected by UV light and peppers are one of them.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
Avatar for eracet
May 25, 2021 7:48 PM CST
Thread OP
South Dakota
DaisyI said:You need full spectrum lights (sometimes sold as "grow" lights, or bright white lights). Turn the UV light off. Some plants are adversely affected by UV light and peppers are one of them.


The light I got is a full spectrum. Has differenent settings. Was thinking needed to step it, but will turn on all the lights and see how it goes.
Image
May 25, 2021 8:52 PM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
Except the UV - turn that one off.

Report back (on this thread) in a week or so. You should see pretty immediate results.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
Avatar for eracet
May 26, 2021 6:47 AM CST
Thread OP
South Dakota
DaisyI said:Except the UV - turn that one off.

Report back (on this thread) in a week or so. You should see pretty immediate results.


The "grow" light has 2 settings,
One has red and white, one is red blue and white.
If I turn both on its all of those from both switches.

Do I dare bring them outdoors or just keep them inside for now?
Image
May 26, 2021 7:24 AM CST
Port d'Envaux, France (Zone 9a)
A Darwinian gardener
Are there drainage holes in those cups? If not you will need to address that before moving forward.
We don't know what your weather is so it is hard to know whether they can be outdoors. However, peppers like heat and sunshine. If the weather is moderate I would place them outside and treat them as you would seedlings that were being hardened off for outdoor planting. That is, begin by placing them in a sheltered position such as bright shade or dappled sunshine for a few days and gradually increase their exposure while protecting them from harsh afternoon sun. In a matter of a couple of weeks they will be able to take all the sunshine you can offer them.
Remember that even a fairly shady location outdoors is far brighter than the light you've been giving them so treat them gently to begin. Bring them in at night if necessary - they really don't want temps below 55 if possible.
As they acclimate and grow you will know which are performing well enough to be offered a touch of food - a water soluble food mixed probably at half strength. Really they want to be outside as soon as they are healthy and conditions allow it.

Anyway - that is how I would proceed if they were mine. Of course I am not telling you how many plants I've killed in my lifetime.
I find myself most amusing.
Image
May 26, 2021 11:12 AM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
Red, blue and white light is fine but UV is not. Are you confusing UV and LED? The problem with LED is they aren't as bright as fluorescent bulbs - it takes more light to accomplish the same thing. You really can't calculate lumens or foot candles by counting the lightbulbs. Full sun is about 2000 lumens or foot candles per square foot. Your plants are clearly indicating they are receiving enough light - they are stretching and turning yellow.

Its still a little chilly in South Dakota for peppers to be happy without protection. You are at latitude 44N and I am at 39N. My peppers are outside with Walls-O-Water AND tomato greenhouses for protection.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
Avatar for eracet
May 26, 2021 11:25 AM CST
Thread OP
South Dakota
DaisyI said:Red, blue and white light is fine but UV is not. Are you confusing UV and LED? The problem with LED is they aren't as bright as fluorescent bulbs - it takes more light to accomplish the same thing. You really can't calculate lumens or foot candles by counting the lightbulbs. Full sun is about 2000 lumens or foot candles per square foot. Your plants are clearly indicating they are receiving enough light - they are stretching and turning yellow.

Its still a little chilly in South Dakota for peppers to be happy without protection. You are at latitude 44N and I am at 39N. My peppers are outside with Walls-O-Water AND tomato greenhouses for protection.


Am I Better getting some Fluorescent light bulbs to add to the current ?
It is lower 80s during the day, and very humid. A little afraid of the heat shock to them. This is why I have a tester plant. The one that seemed have the stem turn red.

And how big do they need to get to think about replanting?
Image
May 26, 2021 2:35 PM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
How cold is it getting at night? I would be tempted to put them outside, box and all, and throw a banket or sheet over them at night. If it gets too cold, put a candle in a can in the box with them.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
Image
Jun 6, 2021 5:26 PM CST
Name: Ed
South Alabama (Zone 8b)
Beekeeper Vegetable Grower Enjoys or suffers hot summers Seed Starter Region: Alabama Garden Procrastinator
Container Gardener Butterflies Birds Bee Lover Zinnias
The cups look small and they are only filled halfway with potting soil. Between the plant lights and the needs of the plants it seems the cups would quickly dry out. Several of the seedlings appear to be dried up already. My gardening buddy has an LED grow light and what surprised me was that with his he had to keep the lights 2-3 feet above his seedlings. Are the bulbs in the clamp lights LED or incandescent? Do you have a hard time keeping the cups watered? Inside the box with all the lights just seems like would be a really drying environment. Shrug!
Avatar for eracet
Jun 6, 2021 5:50 PM CST
Thread OP
South Dakota
Intheswamp said:The cups look small and they are only filled halfway with potting soil. Between the plant lights and the needs of the plants it seems the cups would quickly dry out. Several of the seedlings appear to be dried up already. My gardening buddy has an LED grow light and what surprised me was that with his he had to keep the lights 2-3 feet above his seedlings. Are the bulbs in the clamp lights LED or incandescent? Do you have a hard time keeping the cups watered? Inside the box with all the lights just seems like would be a really drying environment. Shrug!


Since the last update.
I moved them into much larger containers with compost mix mostly for soil. And they have drainage.
Also moved them to outdoors. Some are doing good. some are struggling. Was doing soil with a blend of potting soil, compost soil and top soil. But seems like the compost raised garden soil seems to be good. They are getting full light. Trying not to over water but also trying to keep them from not drying out.
Noticed when I was using the cups when I re potted some of the roots were soiled. That is probably some of the issue with them. Dry on top soiled on the bottom. With the new containers, it should help.
Avatar for binfordw
Jun 6, 2021 5:56 PM CST
Indiana (Zone 6a)
For what its worth-

I start pepper seeds in peat pods- and keep them covered and on a heat pad. Once they sprout, I use cheap grow lights

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyp...

And keep them within 2-4 inches of the plants when possible. Once the plants are under the lights, they do need water atleast once a day, potting them up to a larger pot helps with them drying out so fast.

If you were trying to "heat" them with lights, it was likely too much?
Image
Jun 6, 2021 9:14 PM CST
Name: Ed
South Alabama (Zone 8b)
Beekeeper Vegetable Grower Enjoys or suffers hot summers Seed Starter Region: Alabama Garden Procrastinator
Container Gardener Butterflies Birds Bee Lover Zinnias
I'm glad things are looking better, eracet! Hang in there with it. The larger containers and sunshine should do wonders! Thumbs up
Avatar for eracet
Jul 28, 2021 7:33 AM CST
Thread OP
South Dakota
This continuing quest for peppers updated:
They are all outside. Seems as though the growth is still very slow.
Repotted into larger containers for the larger plants but my largest one is about 10 inches tall.
Others range from 4 to 6 inches.
Some of them got dry , some of them got too much water.
Now looks like only a few are doing ok.
Getting to the point of giving up. This is the progress since February.
Starting the seeds was easy , work great. And they started growing fine. When I started uncovering and switching to a light cycle is where stuff started going wrong.
Thumb of 2021-07-28/eracet/9069aa
Image
Jul 28, 2021 9:36 AM CST
Name: Ed
South Alabama (Zone 8b)
Beekeeper Vegetable Grower Enjoys or suffers hot summers Seed Starter Region: Alabama Garden Procrastinator
Container Gardener Butterflies Birds Bee Lover Zinnias
eracet, a going to put this simply: Dump those plants in the garbage...soil and all. Wash the pots that aren't disposable *very* good with soap and water and bleach and toss the disposable ones. Seriously, dump them all.

Something has been very, very wrong with the attempt at growing the peppers. I don't know what it is, though.

The problem could be that the plants simply were not cared for properly (no offense intended). If they went through multiple cycles of drought and flood then that could have stunted them badly. Letting them dry out and stay dry for a while will harm them greatly...kind of like us walking across Death Valley with a 16oz bottle of water...it wouldn't work. Flooding them to make up for a drought situation won't really help much once the harm is done. Conversely, keeping them wet can encourage root-rot, fungus, etc., along with depriving the plants of oxygen...it would be kind of like us trying to breath underwater...this won't work, either.

It could be that one of the ingredients in your soil mix was toxic, having some type of herbicide or other toxic chemical in it. That is definitely a possibility but about impossible to know for sure.

I would recommend *not* mixing your own potting soil and to purchase a bag or two of a good potting soil. One that I've been using and is available around here is Baccto. I'm sure there's something in your area that is good stuff. Find a good nursery or farmer's co-op and see what they recommend. If the first thing off of their lips is "Miracle-Gro..." be nice and check other places. Sometimes Miracle-Gro soil is ok, but a good nursery or co-op usually will carry a more commercial(?) grade potting soil (but may have MG soils, too).

I hate that you've had this trouble with your peppers, but I wouldn't waste anymore time on them. I see none in that picture that look like they're doing ok. Toss'em all and write it up to experience.

What I do:

I use a good potting soil to start my seedlings. I've been using "Pro-Mix Vegetable & Herb" to start my seedlings with, but it is getting hard to get around here so I've been using the Baccto some and it seems to be doing the job. The Pro-Mix brand originates in Canada so you may have better access to it than I do...it's really great stuff! Otherwise, if you have to get a bag of Miracle-Gro potting soil. Don't get any "top soil" or "container soil"....*only* POTTING SOIL.

20oz styrofoam cups are really cheap and work great to start seedlings in. Take a sharp pencil, stick the point into the side of the cup just above the bottom and spin it around in the hole a few times...this makes a nice drainage hole. Repeat this so that you have two or three drainage holes in the cup.

As you beginning filling and planting the seeds first take a marker and write the name of the pepper on the side of the cup. Open and use one seed packet at a time. Do this as you plant each variety so that you know you're labeling them correctly.

Moisten the potting soil some...don't saturate it, just wet it some and stir it good...you can do this in a large pan or plastic container. Potting soil can be hard to wet once in the cup/pot so it's better to pre-wet it before putting it in the cups...after that it is easy to keep it moist. Fill the cups and slightly firm the soil down in the cup.

Take the sharp pencil and make two or three holes in the soil to plant the seeds in. I usually let the point go in up to where the paint is still on the pencil (unsharpened area)...then when you firm the soil back over the seed you've got roughly 1/4" of dirt over it.

After you have all the seeds planted water the cups well. Next, you need to put them in a tray or box that you can loosely cover with some plastic to hold moisture in. I don't like to completely seal them inside a bag being as I do want fresh air to be able to get it. I put my seedlings in a plastic container and lay a piece of plastic over the top of the container and cups, leaving a few gaps around the edges.. I use recycled plastic bags that ice comes in to cover mine with, you can cut them open to make large sheets of plastic or if you've only a few cups you can slide them inside the bag...the lettering on the bag doesn't matter.

Place the semi-sealed container in a warm room. Peppers like it warmer than most other plants but if you can get them in a mid-70's temperature that will work. 80F would be better. Be patient, pepper takes longer than tomatoes to germinate. But check them everyday to be sure they're moist...some condensation on the plastic covering is good...but, you don't want it soggy.

Start paying close attention at about a week. If you see a single seedling breaking the soil surface take all the cups of that particular variety and put them under your lights...the rest will follow in short order and you want them greeted by that bright, life-giving light!!! As you see different varieties break the soil surface move them beneath the light.

As insurance I've started putting my covered, germinating cups close to or beneath my lights just so if a seedling pops up it'll at least be getting *some* light from the very beginning. Be sure the lights don't overheat the covered cups, though. It's whatever you feel good about doing.

I use 4' florescent shop-lights...primarily with daylight (5000k temp) bulbs in them. I have three fixtures situated side-by-side fixtures and usually grow two rows of seedlings beneath these. I'm not sure what your LED lights are like so you'll have to figure out how to arrange your plants beneath them. With the florescents that I use I keep the seedling 1-2 inches from the lights. I believe in purpose-built LED grow-lights that the distance is much greater than this. I can barely feel a little heat coming off my shop-lights when I hold the back of my hand the same distance from them as the seedlings are from them. Don't cook your seedlings but give them all the light you can.

I start out running my lights for sixteen hours straight. I give the seedlings 8 hours of darkness. I usually run the lights from around 6am to 10pm. Sixteen hours.

I use a weak mixture of Scotts Bloom Booster water soluble fertilizer for the seedlings once they have their first or second set of true leaves. I usually feed them every other watering.

I usually water the seedlings every three days to begin with, but I check them daily. As they get larger they require more water and watering moves to every two days (but still keeping a check on them everyday in case for reason they dry out quick). Never let your seedlings dry out....NEVER! You want them to start growing good and to never stop growing. In six weeks, eight weeks max, the plants should be ready to go into the garden after several days of hardening off (brief visits under the sun, increasing the time a little each day). I'm not real good at hardening off my plants and they seem to do ok with two or three days of visits outside before going into the garden. You can actually grow your seedlings outside once you get them going but you have to be careful the sun doesn't burn them or dry them out quickly...there's more control beneath the grow-lights.

That's pretty much what I do. I've got a jalapeno in a pot that is pushing 2-1/2 feet tall and probably has 50(?) peppers on it of all sizes. This was a "left over" plant that stayed under the growlights for *way too long*. I threw it in a pot of old recycled potting soil from several different pots with a little added fertilizer. This plant had really been just surviving in the 20oz cup for months and now it's going gangbusters. That's why I think your plants have something amiss about their growing medium. If this little jalapeno can go from an ugly duckling to a pretty nice-looking swan certainly your plants should be big and healthy if something wasn't terribly wrong.

Something is indeed screwy about your plants' health. I'd get rid of all the soil mix and plants and start fresh with a known good soil. Follow some of the things I mentioned above and you should be growing some nice plants. It seems that you've got some nice LED growlights, just be sure to use them correctly. The blue lights encourage vegetative growth whereas the red lights encourage maturing and blooming. Personally I'd run both sets for the most lumens...I've pretty much always had a couple of lower Kelvin temperature (reddish) tubes in my shop lights and the plants seem to do well.

Anyhow, don't let this sour your goal of growing peppers. Take it as a learning experience. Dot your "i"'s and cross your "t"'s. If you want to really grow some good plants you've got to put effort of time and thought into it. It's not something you can think about every now and then...those plants can't go get a drink of water by themselves and they do need some nourishment all along. If you're going to grow them....grow them. Thumbs up

Best wishes,
Ed
Avatar for eracet
Jul 28, 2021 11:41 AM CST
Thread OP
South Dakota
I did everything according to what should be done.

Seedlings were in regular cups. started fine,
Transferred them to a light cycle in correct temperature.
Over watered at first then backed off because they were getting over saturated.
Transferred to temporary larger plastic bottles with holes for drainage outside.
Larger plants got out into pots with new soil and replanting keeping the root system intact.
And continuing water and watching for over watering.
Seems as though they start to dry out fast though especially in heat, but dont over water in case the roots get over soiled.

When I re potted the larger ones in pots I noticed that some of the soil was super saturated , probably due to some downpours the night before.

Only the members of the Members group may reply to this thread.
  • Started by: eracet
  • Replies: 32, views: 630
Member Login:

( No account? Join now! )

Today's site banner is by eclayne and is called "Astilbe Color Flash Lime"

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.