Hi All,
As usual, I've jumped in with both feet and ordered a bunch of sempervivum without having any sort of plan. Of course my timing wasn't well considered either, and they arrived today- along with several inches of snow. I assume that they wouldn't appreciate the shock of going from greenhouse conditions to snow.
My first question is just basic: Can I get away with adding a couple inches of turface to the deli cups (see pic) to hold just enough moisture to keep them happy until I can plant? Or do I need another plan?

My real question for the group: what would you do differently if you were starting out with sempervivum today? Is there anything that you wish you had known? Any planting ideas that you wish you had seen?

I've browsed the threads enough to know that there is a huge resource of knowledge and experience in this group and I appreciate what I've already learned from everyone.

You definitely need to pot these up before moving them to the yard and make sure they have as much light as they can get. They don't want WARM HOUSE TEMPERATURES so keep them on a protected porch until garden conditions are OK. A little weak fertilzer will promote new root growth as semps tend to shed their old roots after transplanting.

I was SO lucky growing up in that I had Polly Bishop for a neighbor. She knew more about gardening then ten others combined! So I had all my questions answered. Most are not so lucky although groups like this one certainly help.

My only regrets were not doing the plant breeding full time earlier in my life.

Kevin

Things I wish I had known. 1. To prepare the soil medium in advance along with the pots. I originally slapped them into the ground and saw some rot with the first rains and realized the soil did not have the drainage it should have. 2. I wished I had known how fast they grew so I could calculate how much space I would need over time. 3. A better "naming" system. A lot of little name tags floated away with the rains.

Kevin, I'm glad you got into plant breeding even if it wasn't just after you graduated to solid foods I don't have a suitable cool spot indoors so it looks like my weekend project will be to get them in the ground outside and figure out how to give them a little extra protection if they seem like they need it. Luckily the snow has already melted.

Katy, good reminder on spacing and tags. I always end up with crowded plantings and have to move things as they mature. I have basic white plastic plant tags that I'll use to to start, but I don't love the look. Did you end up finding anything that handles the elements and looks better?

Hi plantsandpotscancats.
You don't need to immediately plant into the ground if your soil isn't ready for planting. As Kevin posted in his above comment, you can punch holes in your cups, add a fast draining potting mix, plant the rosettes, water and give a second watering with Miracle Grow Quick Start @ 1/4 strength. That is what Kevin uses to help the new semps grow new roots.
Your new semps look lovely, and healthy. You can keep the tiny pots under a roof, like a patio or porch roof. That will keep them from getting to much water. Don't forget, they do need lots of light.

Katy, good reminder on spacing and tags. I always end up with crowded plantings and have to move things as they mature. I have basic white plastic plant tags that I'll use to to start, but I don't love the look. Did you end up finding anything that handles the elements and looks better?

Hi plants and pots and cats.
For the time being, I am doing two things. I take a picture of the pot, and then put it in "paint" and then import the picture into my plant inventory. I keep a plant "inventory" with pictures of each plant, and names and other cultural information. It has been invaluable in helping me to remember what I have. That gives me a "map" of the pot, and plants. And to know them right away I have flat rocks with the names in Sharpie Marker right next to them. They are cheap tags. I am not sure how long sharpies last but the porous surface of a rock (unpolished) seems that it would hold sharpie ink longer than a plastic tag, and they don't decay. I suppose I will need to touch them up. With plastic tags the issue is: sun decays plastic. The plastic is too slick for writing on. (of course, you can use a wood burning tool or something. Wood (if you want a wooden tag) will also decay. Metal tags are expensive compared to a bag of white rocks. Here is a picture of the white stones and I also used a bit of a terra cotta pot I found in the yard.

Reclaimed venetian blinds are a cost-effective source for plant tags. Pencil works better than markers and ink pens. The pencil stays for years, and is easy to retouch if needed.

I use venetian blinds for my lilies and some of my semps. I've been marking with china marker aka grease pencil. So far so good!

At first I used Sharpie on popsicle sticks for plant tags, but switched to a label maker and plastic labels. Its not much fun trying to read faded Sharpie

In the beginning I tried the sharpie. It wouldn't last even one growing season.

I use the metal markers from Paw Paw Everlast (small flags) for the semps including or my semp crosses. I write on it with #2 pencil and it lasts a good long time. If you buy in bulk, you get quite a good price on the labels too. I have so many seedlings that I don't use any other type of label. Same with my iris and daylily seedlings until they get officially numbered.

For the taller plants I use the mini markers with replaceable nameplates and use the Brother P Touch labeling machine for smaller irises and perennials. The labels have lasted greater than 13 years here in Oregon and I use the same style but taller for the tall bearded, spuria and Siberian irises and daylilies.

Hope that helps!!

Kevin

Some of my observations from my experience.

Gravel tops without any substrate residue on them keep the moss away, once the moss grows strong no chick will be capable to root thru the moss, it's like a barrier on top of the soil/substrate (the moss is the barrier), which can also keep the substrate extra wet in a container as does not allow easy evaporation. Even in the summer when the moss and it's roots may die (at least look dry as a rock) it still remains there like a dense barrier.

Some cultivars are more prone to leaf mush than others in the same place under the same conditions, some cultivars even appear immune to it.

Sempervivum look the best under 24C/75F temperature if there are many hours of direct sun shining on them, they will grow longer leaves, leaves will not shrivel, at least with regards to containers.

Good observations, Paleo. How are you semps doing?

Semps are doing fine, taking care just of a few cultivars these days.

Paleo, I would love to see photos of your semps.

Sempervivum don't need much water; I've lost some because there was an incline and they just weren't happen at the bottom. But there aren't too many places in my garden I can place them; you certainly can't put them in the back where they would get lost.

The one thing I wish I knew years ago when I began gardening is which plants are herbaceous. I have a lovely "lower" garden where I planted about five astilbes as I love their flowers as well as their leaves. (For me, perennials have to have pretty leaves so that I don't just look at "boring" when they're not flowering.) But because I placed all five astilbes in their own area, in the winter it looks as though I have no garden--nothing. So this year I will fill in that garden with some plants that are evergreen. Another lesson learned.

Great thoughts on gardening, Janet.
In difficult areas I have found that raised beds are helpful in keeping interest in the garden.

Paleo, like your tips on preventing/controlling moss in pots. My semps, suspended in small pots from a south-facing fence, have cheerfully survived winter temps in mid-Wales of -5 C.

June update:

Everybody looks happy in the update! Thanks.