So this orchid was given as a gift and it was in a huge pot with about 4 other plants. I've since separated all the plants and put them in separate pots.

The pot they were all in was about 1.5ft wide, .5ft in depth and 3ft high.. with NO drainage. And the orchid was in a plastic cup (also with no drainage) within the soil. I have no idea why this was ever potted this way.

The orchids leaves were all turning yellow and rotting and the roots were so rotten when I took it out, I cut/pulled the rotten roots out (at least half the roots) and repotted it into proper soil mix. The old soil was just regular potting soil. It's flower has just since died and it's been repotted for about 2 weeks. HELP

It looks like you buried it a bit too deep, but hopefully you salvaged it in time. We have lots of info on Phalaenopsis orchids in the orchid forum because it is a common orchid in commerce that often lacks growing instructions. there is a sticky at the top of the page.They are well worth the research.

Considering what your Phalaenopsis has been through, it looks pretty good. Cut off the two flower stalks and the yellow leaf. Take enough bark out of the pot so the crown and stem of the orchid is above ground level. It would have been good if you had used a clear plastic liner pot so you could check on root health and bark dampness.

My only other suggestion is wander over to the Orchid Forum and read some of the 'stickies' at the top to learn more about the care of Phalaenopsis.

Carol and Daisy have given good advice regarding your Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis) and you can find more information about care on this page at our orchid forum:

The thread "🗣 Starting out with Phals/Supermarket Orchids 🛎 ✍️" in Orchids forum

I only have one opinion to give and that is that I would not recommend that you grow any orchid in a pot within a pot. It has the potential, especially for newcomers to lead to watering problems.
I agree though that it is too deep, remove roughly the top 1/2" to 1" of media and your media is a little too coarse. But you can counter that by watering slightly more often.
Let's call that a 6" pot. Normally I would say to water it every 6-7 days. However with a coarse media I say try every 4-5 days. You want it to approach dryness before watering again. Coarse media compared to fine typically dries out quicker.
New media like yours often looks dry and dusty. If you water with 90 degree water or so, the bark will hold moisture a little more quickly then if you used 70 degree water. And that will help your plant hold water sooner.
Cut off the old bloom spikes, fertilize 3X a year and she'll make new roots within 4-6 weeks on average.
Looking good!!

Bill, Have you been shopping enough to see the orchid pots available lately? Pretty and have open areas for air . Great cache pots for indoor orchids.

Cache pots may be fine indeed but I am old school. Give me a good old clay or plastic pot with excellent drainage.
I just hate to see inexperienced growers try these pots because they are so new to orchid growing. They don't really have the experience to recognize watering and air movement issues. "I like keep it simple stupid!" The simpler the better.
Old timers like me and you, we have the experience and knowledge to spot issues and rectify them. I believe in tried and true methods when it comes to orchids. We can try new methods as kind of a control in an experiment. Beginners don't have that knowledge.
If growing orchids requires good drainage and air movement, I like to keep new methods and gimmicks out of the equation.
Like I have posted many times before, I have been in this long enough to see several "hot, new, sure fire media's" hit the market and fail miserably. This goes for pots and containers. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
P.S. just because there are new orchid pots out there doesn't mean that they are any good. Take a division, grow one in a cache pot, grow one in a plastic pot. Grow them side by side and see if there is any significant difference. If there is a big difference, then cool, use them. But good orchid growers can grow orchids on cement.
About 20 years ago, Chinese ceramic pots were all the rage due to their beauty and how they made orchids like Pluerothallids and Masdevallias look so pretty. Well orchids suffered due to the glaze and people were getting rashes and sores on their skin. I have never gotten a rash from a plastic pot. Just color me inflexible I guess.

I would never attempt to actually grow in these pots, but they hide those ugly plastic pots without smothering them.

See, I would disagree. I feel that every layer of pot reduces air flow. It has to. Air passing through one layer takes less time then two layers. Is it 10% slower? Is it reduced 30%? 50%?! I don't know.

But for me and my plants any reduction in air movement is frowned upon by me. I hate black rot. I despise black rot. I will not do anything to make it easier for any rot to get a foothold. And since I feel that good orchid culture is all about the roots, I won't do anything to compromise them.

Hello ktcouvs, later on you will find out each grower will have their own preference as to what media and what container to use. As for me, my observation for your plant, the container lacks good airflow at root zone. Typically what I use for my Phal orchids are containers either glazed or clay but both must have side holes. If I happen to not have one available I use plastic containers but I always add holes at the bottom and on the sides. This will allow better airflow at the root zone.

You mentioned about soil. Phals are grown mostly using orchid bark mix, not potting soil. Or later on if you feel more confident, there are other well draining media to use. But for now stick to chunky orchid bark mix. Personally I also hate using sphagnum moss on them, particularly Phals. But some use them, so again a matter of preference and discipline in watering. Sphagnum moss holds water too long, and I always find it hard to gauge if they are dry enough. After each watering I also run our ceiling fans briefly just to let more air around a bit. During summer when light is more intense by our west facing window, I draw the sheer white curtain to protect my Phals from too much sun.

Phals have such thick roots, it really wants more air and it may also grow aerial roots later on, so do not be surprised if your plant seems to want to walk out of its container It is just its nature being an epiphytic plant. I have learned to just let it go and allow it do so. Those roots will also do some photosynthesis so it will like to feel some light as well. Make sure the crown of your plant is not buried too deep in the media. I always angle my plant a bit, that way the collar below and the crown will not get too wet when I do some watering.

If those bloomstalks are done with flowering, just cut them off so your plant can redirect its energies to growing new roots and leaves. Next blooming time will be around Fall season when temps cool down again.

There is still some good potential for your plant, so just make the adjustments needed, and hopefully it will recover in time. Btw, it is also common for older, lower leaves to dry out and fizzle away, so do not panic too much. Just improve your container and if needed your media mix.

Okay I appreciate all the feedback but it's kind of overwhelming. Should I repot it in plastic now?... or just drill holes in the sides of this clay pot? There is drainage holes in the bottom already. It's winter here and tarev mentioned it won't bloom again until Fall.. so another year? Until then just keep monitoring it? What about the stems, they are turning brown at the top.

Cut back the bloom stems all the way.
Do not drill into pot, it will crack and break. It should bloom this November of 2020.
Everything seems so overwhelming in the beginning. You'll be just fine.