Avatar for ofrell
Apr 20, 2020 12:26 PM CST
Thread OP

this was my first hippeastrum (saved from the trash). I love the structure of it's leaves and began to purchase more. None of the new purchases have similarly strong leaves. This plant thrives in low light that makes others droop, it also does not handle direct light well, evidenced by the scorch on the leaves and bulb from some spring sun. Any input would be appreciated.
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Apr 20, 2020 1:51 PM CST
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Name: Rj
Just S of the twin cities of M (Zone 4b)
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The foliage is normal for Amaryllis, after blooming the bulbs need to be in light to put energy back in the bulb. After I force them the first year I transition to spring blooming, I set them out around late April early May in zone 4b. Once they are done blooming I leave them outside until about 3 week in Sept, at that point I put them in a cool dark area (my basement), occasionally watering them minimally during the winter, come spring I start the process all over. They are left in their containers the entire time.
As Yogi Berra said, “It's tough to make predictions, especially about the future.”
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Apr 20, 2020 4:12 PM CST
Name: Barbara
Palm Coast, FL
Amaryllis Master Gardener: Florida Region: Florida Dog Lover Daylilies Container Gardener
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Your lower photo shows a very nice healthy amaryllis. However, the top photo shows an amaryllis which has some problems. That red on the leaves is most lightly an indicator of disease, not sunlight scald. That level of spotting and streaking is usually not fatal, but it does reduce the quality and quantity of blooming. There are fungi, bacteria and even viruses that cause different types of red streaking. It might be coincidental that you started seeing the problem, when it was in direct light, which is why you thought that it was sunlight scald. You can try treating it with a garden fungicide, dry it out a bit, and even, if you have to, cut back the diseased leaves. The good news is that the bulb itself doesn't look bad at this point, it looks like a leaf issue at the present time so it is worth trying to save it. Amaryllis should not be kept permanently in low light, they won't bloom.
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Apr 20, 2020 10:29 PM CST
Name: Ron
Modi'in Israel (Zone 11a)
maybe the top one is Worsleya ?

leaves are very similar and unique to Worsleya

It need very specific soil, otherwise we have this red leaves problem
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Apr 21, 2020 7:44 AM CST
Name: Christie
Central Ohio 43016 (Zone 6a)
Plays on the water.
Amaryllis Permaculture Sempervivums Roses Bookworm Annuals
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Welcome! It looks like Naranja to me - one of my favorites. If you are concerned about disease, I would sprinkle some cinnamon onto the soil.
Plant Dreams. Pull Weeds. Grow A Happy Life.
Avatar for ofrell
Apr 21, 2020 10:34 AM CST
Thread OP

Hurray! Thank you all very much! That is the same plant in both of the pics in the original post. The first is the most recent pic. It was perfect and green until I put it in the sun a few times. I wonder if sun damage / stress can induce the virus/bacteria/fungus then causing the blotching.

Here are more current pics which include a pot of Aphrodite that, to me, have different leave shape (they don't have a deep ridge or a very vertical fan structure. The Aphrodite have had much more direct light and no signs of "burn", so this and the different foliage made me wonder if I was dealing with some sort of hybrid or unusual amaryllis.

I will try cinnamon on the soil. I've read about red blotch etc and will keep an eye on it. I expect that if that is the cause of the red, then the leaves will die. is that a reasonable expectation ? I've read about hot water baths for the bulb followed by drying with captan application to address red blotch infections in amaryllis.

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