I would think the larger cutting would fit in a 10 inch (3 gallon) pot and the smaller one in an 8 inch pot. You don't want to bury a whole lot of stem, just however much is necessary for reasonable stability. The important thing is not so much the width but the depth of the pot, which should be in the range of 6-8 inches. You can go bigger but starting in a relatively small pot at the beginning is helpful because the watering is easier to manage. A small pot (especially a shallow one) will dry out faster than a big pot (especially a deep one), all things equal, and that will allow you to water deeply more often without worrying about the bottom staying wet all the time. Whatever size pot you use, it's essential the pot has holes at the bottom and does not sit in a lake of pooled water after watering. Using a very shallow pot (say less than 6 inches deep) is counterproductive as this is a tree and it benefits from a greater amount of root space at the very beginning.
Park those cuttings right next to your sunniest southerly-facing window, in a location where they will "see" the sun for hours a day year round. The more natural light the better indoors.
If you want to take them outside, that is a fine option (given that's where they came from in the first place, presumably). Avoid direct overhead sun at this time of year. Morning sun is fine, filtered light too, just not the most intense midday rays. Be aware that an outdoor location will typically cause the soil to dry out faster, since evaporation depends on temperature and air flow and light exposure.
Your cuttings will root much better with some moisture in the soil to convince them to do so. Go for a repeating cycle of properly wet and nearly dry soil for best results. There is no benefit to leaving the soil bone dry for any extended period. There is a significant risk of adverse consequences if it does not dry out enough often enough (at depth, not just at the surface).
This species will sometimes develop weird discolored areas at the growth point when it is trying to decide what to do. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Discolored areas on the rest of the plant (especially on the stem near ground level) would be something to monitor.
Be aware that this plant often spends much of the year apparently doing nothing, even when it is properly rooted. There tends to be a season of active growth (which is pretty obvious because there are small vestigial leaves produced on new growth) and a season of rest, which is not to be confused with dormancy (the plant is still photosynthesizing and demands strong light; it also benefits from regular water during rest).
You will know your cuttings have kicked into gear when you see that new top growth (leaves visible above the buds and flowers in the picture), and that will confirm they have functioning roots. But even after a cutting is rooted, it sometimes will sit there doing nothing for months, and that's not anything to be alarmed about, just a natural delay as the newly rooted cutting gathers strength and energy to grow again. As long as you focus on strong light (max out the light indoors, or provide 2-4 hours of direct sun outdoors but not during midday) and make sure you have a good wet-dry cycle going with the watering, you just have to sit back and let nature work everything out. Rooting may take 4-12 weeks if I had to guess.
