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Avatar for hampartsum
May 9, 2021 7:21 PM CST
Thread OP
Name: Arturo Tarak
Bariloche,Rio Negro, Argentina (Zone 8a)
Dahlias Irises Plant Lover: Loves 'em all! Roses
Hi ,
At this time of the year ( fall in the S.hemisphere), it's the best to move around or plant rhodies. Some of mine that need relocation have very long bare branches with a cluster of leaves in the end. I feel tempted to prune them and use the tips as cuttings. Is it reasonable to do that now? I have a cool greenhouse where to keep my potted cuttings frost free. I also have a second warmer ( heated) greenhouse as an alternate placing. Of course I can also place them outside, but I doubt that would be an acceptable choice, since we are heading into winter. Tomorrow night we are expecting lows around 28 degrees F.
Ty to all who may provide input.

Arturo
Avatar for SkirtGardener
May 9, 2021 7:57 PM CST
Name: SkirtGardener
Central Pennsylvania (Zone 5a)
Life is a Miracle! Fueled by Love.
Million Pollinator Garden Challenge Organic Gardener Composter Permaculture Farmer Region: Northeast US
Japanese Maples Fruit Growers Clematis Peonies Bulbs Dog Lover
I've propagated Azaleas in the summer and some few evergreen Rhododendrons, though the evergreens have been slow to root for me. I understand that they propagate well outdoors in shade letting the tops get cool while the bottoms are warm. I'd say go for it in taking cuttings now, if they're evergreen types, and let them stay outside over the winter... or in your cool greenhouse if that's a better place to set up for bottom heat and not mess up their seasons too much. I propagate my cuttings in mobile containers with vented white domes that protect them from wind while providing bright shade (such as milk jugs, or large bag-covered pots), which seems to work for a lot of things.
Learning to work with Mother Nature rather than against her, such that the more I harvest with thankfulness, the more she will most gladly and willingly provide.
Specializing in a full spectrum variety of trees and shrubs, occasionally with perennials as an incidental bonus.
Avatar for hampartsum
May 10, 2021 6:15 AM CST
Thread OP
Name: Arturo Tarak
Bariloche,Rio Negro, Argentina (Zone 8a)
Dahlias Irises Plant Lover: Loves 'em all! Roses
Thank you @SkirtGardener! I was planning to give them a dome cover using empty translucent 1 gal plastic containers ( like those used to sell bottled water), with some vents drilled so that dampness doesn't stagnate inside. What did you use as potting mix? I was imagining my natural sandy soil mixed in equal parts with pine duff (decayed long pine needles) of which I have plenty suply here in my farm. Do you think bottom heating is a must?. I could design a warm bed using fermenting compost underneath with the pots containing the cutings placed on a tray. We keep milch sheep in our farm.I do the daily milking. They spend a lot of time in the barn so their bedding piles up quickly. That provides us huge ammounts of organic material with which we generate compost . Our farm is organic and we sell vegetables year round locally. My compost trench is huge 10'x65'x3'(deep) and is covered with gardening soil inside one of the greenhouses.Thus when the compost is fermenting it generates heat and we use it to grow vegetables in winter without extra heating. I can easily allocate a corner for that helping my rhodies ( they are all evergreen types) to root. Do you use rooting powder ( IAA or IBA)?
Thanks for jumping in with your advice!
Arturo
Last edited by hampartsum May 11, 2021 10:47 AM Icon for preview
Avatar for SkirtGardener
May 10, 2021 7:56 PM CST
Name: SkirtGardener
Central Pennsylvania (Zone 5a)
Life is a Miracle! Fueled by Love.
Million Pollinator Garden Challenge Organic Gardener Composter Permaculture Farmer Region: Northeast US
Japanese Maples Fruit Growers Clematis Peonies Bulbs Dog Lover
Be careful using translucent domes if they're out in the sun a lot; I lost a bunch of cuttings to cooking early on by using clear domes at first, not in a shady place. Now I only use opaque domes where there's regular amounts of sun. All my domes are vented, which seems to work very well.
I settled on a sandy loam for my potting mix, basically a 2:4 parts ratio of sand to bagged potting soil, because it both retained moisture and drained well for me, while being readily available. Another bonus is that the soil falls apart easily when I go to separate the rooted cuttings (unless the roots are very fibrous), which is very helpful.
This is the first year I have done anything with bottom heat, so I can't tell you of it's value by experience. But I have read that Rhodies were hard to propagate until the Nearing frame gave them both the shade and cool tops/warm bottoms that they needed to do well. Considering that my summer propagated azaleas haven't been difficult at all, but the evergreens I've tried have been very slow to root, I suspect that bottom heat may very well make the difference that I'm looking for. I'm guessing you'll get a lot better success by trying it.
I use dip-n-grow on any of the potentially harder-to-root items I propagate, of which Rhodies are included. It is a liquid solution that I have mixed up in a spray bottle (at the semi-hardwood or hardwood rate), so it stays fresh for every time I use it, and I can avoid waste (except for overspray). The only difficulty with that is that it gums up the bottle's spray mechanism easily, so I have to rinse it out well with plain water after every time I use it.
It's pretty neat to see how well so many types of landscape cuttings can grow into plants, when they're given the right kind of environment to do it in! That's what I've been discovering, and it's kind of amazing. Smiling It's fun to experiment with everything.
You're welcome! Smiling
Learning to work with Mother Nature rather than against her, such that the more I harvest with thankfulness, the more she will most gladly and willingly provide.
Specializing in a full spectrum variety of trees and shrubs, occasionally with perennials as an incidental bonus.
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