I like to have a very sharp edge on my pruners, but hate having to take them apart to sharpen them to my satisfaction.

This year I purchased a Felco sharpener, and it does seem like it may work, but the grit is very fine and it takes a while to get the edge I like.

https://www.planetnatural.com/...

What is your favorite sharpening tool for your pruners ?

I have a small sharpening stone that i put some oil over and that's what does it for me, but i dont mind taking them apart.

Don't think ive had the bench grinder on them yet, but if they got real bad i think that's what i'd do

Thank you for your response.

I do take them apart at the beginning of the season. It's just that I have about 100 roses to prune and that does dull the edges before I am finished.

I was just hoping to find a tool the I could use without having to take them apart again. I have tried regular hones and other tools, but they seem to damage the bevel because I can't quite get the right angle. It could be my own lack of skill.

Taking them apart is the proper way so if you have a vise try clamping the handle of a ratchet with the socket facing up. The bolt head goes in the socket and your box end wrench loosens the nut.

To maintain the bevel purchase a small tube of Prussian Blue so you can see more better where your file or stone is touching. I prefer to " Draw File " with a very fine file. Google " Draw Filing ". You'll like it and you won't make the tool go to the scrapper.

I'm new and have not a clue how to navigate this forum.

Welcome to NGA ...

NGA is made up of several forums that focus on various interests in gardening. If you go up to the top of the page and click on COMMUNITY, you will get a drop down list and if you click on FORUMS, you will see the various forums on the site. Everything in blue is a live link to a specialized forum.

We also have a forum called the SANDBOX that contains some of the social threads and the threads where things have gotten off topic in the regular forums ...

Eventually you will learn to get around.

Thank you for the advice. I do take my pruners apart at the beginning of the season, but I do a LOT pruning and like to keep a very sharp edge. I was hoping to find a way to sharpen my tool without having to take it apart every time.

I've sharpened bypass pruners without disassembly and your inquiry made my old mind re- think " is there a better or at least a different way "? And yes there is. I suspect this won't be for every bypass pruner design but it did work on my vintage pruners.

I determined, that when in actual use, the last 1/16" or so of the bypassed jaw, which protrudes above the cutting edge, was of no value on this pair. So using my bench grinder with the jaws completely closed and locked, that bypass jaw top edge was ground simultaneously when touching up the sharpened jaw. With that modification the the two jaws become one in that respect when completely closed and when sharpening ( they - it ) can be assumed as one blade.

The fine file used in a draw file motion followed by 600 grit wet / dry and the file as a sandpaper backer it could be used to shave but that would be rather awkward and scary I suspect.

Once modified sharpening will be a snap until I'm too old to use them.

Is there something to click on to ask questions about site operation?

Just go to the welcome and help forum and ask your question there.

SeniorSitizen said:I've sharpened bypass pruners without disassembly and your inquiry made my old mind re- think " is there a better or at least a different way "? And yes there is. I suspect this won't be for every bypass pruner design but it did work on my vintage pruners.

I determined, that when in actual use, the last 1/16" or so of the bypassed jaw, which protrudes above the cutting edge, was of no value on this pair. So using my bench grinder with the jaws completely closed and locked, that bypass jaw top edge was ground simultaneously when touching up the sharpened jaw. With that modification the the two jaws become one in that respect when completely closed and when sharpening ( they - it ) can be assumed as one blade.

The fine file used in a draw file motion followed by 600 grit wet / dry and the file as a sandpaper backer it could be used to shave but that would be rather awkward and scary I suspect.

Once modified sharpening will be a snap until I'm too old to use them.

Thank you for the information and the photos. I don't have a grinder, but I do have the same type of file you show in your photo. I've lost the bevel on my pruners and need to have someone with a grinder re-work them.

I live in a small town in the mountains and there is no place to get tools sharpened. However, I know they have a grinder in the back room of the hardware store, so I'll take my pruners down tomorrow. I am sure one of the guys will help me.

Just in case you couldn't find the WELCOME FORUM, here is a link

https://garden.org/forums/view...

RoseBlush1 said:Welcome to NGA ...

NGA is made up of several forums that focus on various interests in gardening. If you go up to the top of the page and click on COMMUNITY, you will get a drop down list and if you click on FORUMS, you will see the various forums on the site. Everything in blue is a live link to a specialized forum.

We also have a forum called the SANDBOX that contains some of the social threads and the threads where things have gotten off topic in the regular forums ...

Eventually you will learn to get around.

Thank you for the advice. I do take my pruners apart at the beginning of the season, but I do a LOT pruning and like to keep a very sharp edge. I was hoping to find a way to sharpen my tool without having to take it apart every time.

You can use a metal (bodywork and paint) sandpaper as is found in auto parts stores. be as simple as a nail file also.

Thank you, I'll check that out. I lost the bevel on my pruners this year .. and no one up here could help me learn how to sharpen them properly.

Sometimes, it is not just a matter of sharpening the blades assembled or disassembled. Often, if you close the pruners and look up at a light between the two blades, if you see light, that means that the pruning blades are "warped" , usually happens after cutting a thick cane or two, which results in a warping of the blades and no amount of sharpening can correct same. The test to check your pruners after any method of sharpening, is with a simple piece of white paper from a printer or typewtriter. It either cuts or it doesn't. If the latter, don't torture yourself, turf them. I must have about twenty pairs in the basement, let alone the ones I "discover" every Spring when weeding! LOL.