My own answers are probably unusual and not a good model for most growers of succulents. Word to the wise, this is just to show one person's way of doing things.
(1) We have a very mild subtropical climate with very little seasonal variation, so I water most of my potted plants weekly year round. If it rains, I wait a week to water. If it's about to rain, I refrain from watering.
(2) I try to time my watering for when the soil has gone dry or nearly dry at depth (not just at the surface) and I know from experience how long that takes. There are various ways to assess soil moisture, but I find the best way to learn what's happening for any given plant is to time a repot for when you think the soil is going dry, but is not actually there. Once you get the plant out of the pot you can inspect and feel and know whether your guess was right.
(3) Most of my plants get weekly water, but my tiny seedlings get water twice a week; a few dry-growing plants and plants in extra-large pots get water every 2 weeks. A few summer growers (Pachypodium, Adenium, some Euphorbias) get water twice a week during summer, and a few winter-dormant plants get water every 2 weeks during winter. That's it, not very complicated.
(4) All of my plants (indoor and outdoor) "see" the sun for hours a day year round. Most of them are in full sun for at least part of the year. My soil mix is 50% pumice. I mostly use plastic pots but intentionally pot a few moisture-sensitive plants in clay pots, which dry out differently and faster.
Additional notes:
I never water short of saturation, going to fairly serious lengths to get the soil properly wet, namely watering in more than one pass, waiting 5-10 minutes in between for the water to gradually soak in. For more on how this works, consult the following thread.
The thread "Sunday afternoon experiment: watering in multiple passes" in
Gardening Ideas forum
A few general principles are very helpful when you're trying to work out the best watering interval. There is no benefit (speaking generally) to allowing the soil to remain bone dry for any extended period, though most succulents are drought tolerant. There is a significant risk of rot if you do not allow the soil to dry out enough often enough. A regular wet-dry cycle is the key for good root health and proper hydration. Strong light increases evaporation and simplifies watering. The greatest risk of overwatering comes when light is low and temperatures are low, which is precisely when evaporation is proceeding at its slowest. Overpotting (giving your plant more than just a little extra space around the roots) significantly increases the risk of rot if you don't reduce the watering frequency, because the bottom (rootless) layer has the potential to stay wet indefinitely.
