Viewing post #2320926 by kousa

admmad said:Apparently, depending on how old/mature the pods are on a scape, the scape can be carefully removed from the fan and its cut end (the scape cut as low as possible so that it is as large as possible) placed in a bucket of water. The seeds will continue to develop and mature. I assume the scape and its pods needs to be in sunlight.

Karol Emmerich wrote,
""From Karol Emmerich just south of Minneapolis zone 4 region 1 - For the past 15 years or so I have collected 90 percent of my seeds on scapes that have been cut previously and put in a bucket with a couple of inches of water in the bottom. I keep them out of the elements and don't add anything to the water. It can get stinky, but no harm comes to the scapes. I have had success with pods the size of a medium sized grape - perhaps 30 days along. You can just drag them in the garage if a freeze is in the forecast and the. Pull them back outside during the day, perhaps under a garage overhang to keep them out of the elements. I know the pollen parent from my paperclip chain attached to the pod. I tie flagging tape around the scape and write the name of the pod parent on it. I used to write the pod parent on the scape and the pods, but the scape dries out much faster than when it is attached to the plant and I often couldn't read it. I do hundreds of scapes this way each year. It saves a lot of time - no need to run all over the garden (or in my case greenhouse) to collect pods."

Karol Emmerich also wrote this on Facebook,
" I've been doing this for years. No need to change the water or add fertilizer etc, although it will get stinky:-) They work out great if the size of a grape. Lots of folks now do this in the fall ahead of frost. I do it in late June/early July since I do my hybridizing in the greenhouse in May and pods are at least 30 days old when I cut the scapes."

If your pods are not developed enough I would dig down as deep as necessary to try to get as much of the root ball as possible and of course make the planting hole large enough to take the entire root ball. Some daylily roots store resources that the daylily can use to regrow. So getting as much root as possible is good. I would not transplant during the hottest part of the day. Keep the transplanted daylily well watered and possibly well mulched for at least the first few weeks.

I am planning to harvest my scapes and put them in a bucket of water like described above. This will make collecting seeds a lot easier when the pods mature in the 5-gal bucket which I can bring inside to whereever I need the bucket to be. Instead of going about the garden looking for ripened seed pods, I can follow them better having them all in one place.