Viewing post #2757064 by JBarstool

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Jun 17, 2022 8:05 AM CST
Port d'Envaux, France (Zone 9a)
A Darwinian gardener
Everyone sitting down? Because I know that what I am about to tell you will be shocking. Ready? Here goes:

I have a rather strong opinion about salad dressings.

Grill- your brother has the right idea, you are supposed to be able to taste the vegetables. While 'naked' is an option (a boring one, but still an option), a properly dressed salad should be v e r y lightly dressed; the dressing is an anointment not a dousing. Those of you who care I encourage you to try doing it 'right'. In a (larger than you think you need) bowl add your washed and very dried salad ingredients. For a salad dinner for one (like those I've posted) I use a 12" bowl. Lightly season with just a touch of salt. Toss. Down the side of the bowl - not glopped onto the greens - add perhaps a tablespoon of dressing, using tongs toss the greens in a circular motion lifting them and dragging them along the dressed side of the bowl so that you are gathering dressing onto every bit of the greens - continue doing so for what seems an inordinately long time (I count to thirty in a good old fashioned kindergarten way), taste. Adjust if necessary. It goes without saying that this should be done immediately before serving.

As for dressings - I'm sorry but I do not believe there is such a thing as a pre-made dressing fit for human consumption, though I am not a good judge as I haven't bought a prepared dressing since I learned at 8 to make my own. But, as an American child I clearly was served my share of bottled and 'semi-homemade' dressings (add seasoning pack to buttermilk and mayo and voila, 'Ranch').

While I always prefer making dressing immediately before using it, I do cheat during busy salad season such as now by making enough dressing for a few salads and storing it in the fridge. It takes no time to make and the 'jarred' dressing is almost as good as fresh for a week.

I think there is nothing better than a simple vinaigrette, and it is what I use 99.5% of the time. To define what is to me a 'classic' vinaigrette it is oil, vinegar, and mustard beaten into emulsion a pinch of salt and pepper; the mustard serves as the emulsifying agent to keep the dressing in suspension. Mine will generally include a bit of shallot, or occasionally garlic instead. Choosing shallot in the dressing or the stronger garlic will add surprising differences as will the addition of a bit of freshly minced herb. Equally, the choice of which vinegar you use (red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar, sherry vinegar (my go-to), never, ever balsamic for me). Further, your choice of which mustard to use in the vinaigrette makes a tremendous difference in the dressing. Less surprising is how important the quality of the olive oil you use is. After all, depending on your preference a vinaigrette will be 3 (or 4) parts olive oil to one part vinegar so it plays a pivotal role.

On rare occasions I will use a teaspoon or two of the vinaigrette with a teaspoon of yoghurt or creme fraiche and a tiny bit of leftover roquefort (think a teaspoon, again) all amalgamated with the tines of a fork to make a richer dressing.

As with every other salad, there is no place at my table for any salad onto which dressing is spooned, ladled or glopped (OK, maybe a 'Wedge' salad but then you know what you are in for). Salad must be tossed. By the way, only in America would a restaurant send a diner a plate of greens and a gargantuan dollop of some amorphous goo and call it salad. When that has happened to me I have quite politely asked for a large bowl and tongs as the kitchen has forgotten to complete their task. I've generally been humored - which is just as well because there's no way I'd then eat a salad sent back for tossing and...uhm, adulterated...additional dressing.

Another exception for me is when I have a hankering for that Italian- American classic, a Caesar salad. There the dressing starts as a garlicy red wine vinegar vinaigrette but takes a sharp turn when the juice of a lemon is used to chemically 'cook' raw or very lightly coddled egg as part of the dressing.

Over the years I cannot tell you how many classes I've taught where the 'aha moment' has been an understanding of how to make a good salad dressing. So. Darned. Simple.

Oh, and a side benefit if you have a jar of properly emulsified vinaigrette in your fridge - If you just steam some beans or new potatoes, drain them, allow them to dry and cool until a l m o s t room temp, but slightly warmer and then toss, toss, toss with just a small spoonful of cold vinaigrette they will be thoroughly coated in a flavorful, light, dressing that allows them to shine without being overpowered. Delicious.

All this talk of dressing makes me want a salad for dinner - actually its the fact that it is currently 107 (!) in my garden and salad is cold that makes me want another darned salad for dinner. Starting to cool down Sunday I see...

This message brought to you by the highly opinionated salad advisory bored. Uhm, board. Sorry, salad advisory board.
I find myself most amusing.
Last edited by JBarstool Jun 17, 2022 8:16 AM Icon for preview

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