Started a bonsai thread - this forum. We'll see where it goes.
Some things to think about:
It appears there is an area of reverse taper (a swelling) on the side of the trunk you chose to build your tree from, right where the several branches originate and the trunk starts moving back to the right. If it is reverse taper (might be a trick of the camera), I would probably have avoided using that side in favor of the right side, which would also increase the tree's taper. That can still be done, given how vigorous young trees are.
Generally, the 'floating root' you mentioned would be considered something that needs correcting by changing the tree's planting angle to bring it in contact with the soil or removing. I would likely remove it by severing just distal to the little but conspicuous root in the foreground and moving down and right, then carve the stub to look like it died naturally.
I was going to try for some images of my boxwoods, I think I have 3, but they're over-wintering right in the middle of an 8x10 table with plants stacked on plants. I'll remember the thread and take pictures when I start moving stuff in and out on nursery carts.
Tip: Boxwoods have very thin bark and wounds take a long time to heal. For that reason, many practitioners don't use concave cutters to remove branches. I've taken to securing the branch to be removed in the jaws of a pair of wiring pliers, then twisting the top of the pliers away from the trunk. This rips the branch out and leaves a very natural looking indentation where the branch was attached, which heals much better/faster than a flush or concave cut.
Who did you work as apprentice for? I've often thought that had I discovered the passion for bonsai before I had too much invested to change course insofar as what I did for a living, I would have loved to pursue bonsai as a livelihood, starting with an apprenticeship for whomever would have me.
Al
