I forgot the first thing I should have suggested.
Can you run lots of clean warm water right THROUGH the pots after get a root ball re-hydrated? Run it through so it comes out the bottom of the pot
... and stand the pot being flushed somewhere the water can drain away from. Maybe with a plastic bag cloths-pinned to two or three sides of to guide the runoff. It's smart to stand the pot up on two or three chopsticks or pencils.
You can pull water out a little faster and keep the 'water table" in the pot lower if you set the pot on a towel or cotton cloth like denim, a folded Tee shirt, or any other water-wicking fabric. Microfibers are super-effective as wicks! That pulls perched water out of the bottom inch of mix.
The cotton fabric has to touch the soil mix THROUGH the hole in the bottom of the pot. That establishes the capillary attraction. Then you should let the fabric dangle DOWN as many inches as practical to set up. If you can perch pots on bricks or cinder blocks or the edge of a deck or patio. Just don't make it easy for them to tip over and fall a foot or two!
Anyway, a wick that firmly touches the bottom of a soil column and dangles down several inches uses gravity PLUS capillary attraction to help the flushing water drain away before the root hairs drown.
If you let the plant drink BACK water accumulated in the saucer, you're letting them pull all the bad minerals back into the soil around the roots.
During a flush you have to let the water drain away from the pot and never let the pot sit in standing water.
When the plant is just living from day-to-day in a pot indoors, I think you should remove any water that drains into the saucer with a turkey baster and never let the pot "stand with its feet in the water".
You probably already know all that, but my typing fingers got away with me again!
