Thanks, Sue, that really helps ground a new understanding for me. Even nicer, it opens up areas that I've had questions about for years now. I'm grateful for the chance to learn and hear more from you ...
I've had some misgivings about manure sources in general (we are just cautious about possible immune system challenges here), and I'm glad I can avoid putting it down if it's not needed. I think it is time for us to get a soil testing kit. In California they do not offer any testing through Extension Services, but I'll check out the professional labs they reference to see if we can afford it, or will just start with the kits or in-ground testers available at big box. Would love the more in-depth professional tests, though, as I hear they can even advise on soil treatments if needed. Any particular test beyond a pH soil-base range and N-P-K nutrients that might be especially insightful for daylily health?
I was excited to find and read more from Marschner's book at Mr. G's open source bookstore, and gladdened to find its contributors were so diverse and internationally representative. One thing noted in the section you cited was a mention that N may be a substrate for Puccinia? In particular, does that mean Puccinia's natural environment is found in N-type materials (manures, high-N plant materials or composts), or that it thrives nutritionally on those materials, or both, or neither? And, what levels of N and K are best to maintain with fertilizers for soil in daylily beds; is there a minimum level of N needed for foliage growth, and a maximum K threshold for disease resistance? I know there are as many recommendations about fertilizer balance and frequency as their are daylily growers, but I'm hoping to learn about levels that may have been tested? Mr. G is not much help there. I did read from the Missouri Botanical Gardens' fact sheet on daylilies that:
"Generally, most beds will produce about 3 to 4 weeks of bloom and then undergo a dormant period during the high heat of summer. This rest period is a time when the bed can be fertilized ... for next year. Apply a low nitrogen source of fertilizer ... 1 pound of ... 4-8-12 per 100 square feet of bed is generally sufficient."
Does that sound like a safe range to start with, even in zones that have daily summer temps at 90-degrees and above? After striking out on finding a simple way to convert from pounds to liquid measures, I'm wondering if there are other advantages (or not) for possibly switching from liquid to dry fertilizer? I think I'm understanding that fertilizer ratios are rate-proportional and that if we talk about, say, a 10-10-10 fertilizer (to keep the math example simple) it could be diluted 1-to-1 parts with water (or spread 1/2 as much) to get 5-5-5 amount, right? And, vice versa, could get 20-20-20 by applying twice as much? But that, for example, there is no easy way to use up 50-10-10 fertilizer by diluting to get the N-ration down and still have much P-K left in the mix. I'll make it simple on myself and look for fertilizers that show square feet as part of the recommended application, if fertilizing is needed.
I hope more daylily research on cultivar resistance and susceptibility gets a boost and is embraced for the benefits it can bring to everyone who cares for them. It does seems like that same research could also lead to better daylily health in other areas, too.
