Please forgive me for cross-posting this message but it's a slow time on the forum and I'm needing to buy a tiller in the next week or so. This is also posted in the Vegetable and Fruit Forum.
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Hey everybody! I'm still alive and kickin'!!! Maybe not kickin' as high as I once did but still here. Smiling I hope all of you are doing well.

As some of you know, last year I did not have a garden...multiple issues arose. The biggest one was preparations (fund-raising, etc) for a mission trip to Uganda...incredible trip, btw. Smiling The initial issue, though, was that the rear-tine tiller that I had replaced the engine on a couple of years previous had it's transmission to go bad. D'Oh! I did borrow a smaller front-tine tiller from a friend, but it just didn't work well for me...it wore me out too quickly. Since then the grass and weeds have taken over the garden area. Sad

I'm wanting to start the garden back up this season but I need a tiller. We've had the discussion of "no-till" before but living in the petri-dish of garden disease/pests/weeds-n-grass a no-till approach just isn't feasible here. Smiling

I've looked around a lot trying to find a used one, especially a tow-behind...looked on Craigs List and other private sales websites. When I find something that looks like it might be a good one it's usually located in Connecticut or Wisconsin...just a "tad" further than I want to drive for a tiller. I've also reviewed the different brick and mortar stores...Lowes,HD, TSC,etc., and at DRPower's website. Right now the large rear-tine tiller with both forward and counter-rotating tines is on sale at DRPower as is the smaller counter-rotating tines one. Seems that when "on sale" that the DRPower equipment matches or beats the other vendors in pricing.

As for the DRPower forward/counter-rotating tine machine...seems that that option would be nice but it also throws in more complexity to the design/construction that would cost more $$$ to repair should it break. I think the transmission is the Achilles tendon of the rear-tine tiller bunch.

Since my last presence here I managed to bum up a shoulder a little but I think I can still handle a tiller. An option would be one of the pull-behind tillers which would be great as I could pull one behind my old John Deere lawnmower, but the price is a bit high even when they're on sale. The tow-behinds are on the radar...but just a dim blip. DRPower and Agri-Fab build tow-behinds, at least these are the only two that I've found. The Agri-Fab is a *lot* cheaper but the ads make DRPower seem superior...maybe DRPower has a better advertising person? Agri-Fab *might* be in the $$$ ballpark but the DRPower is not. But really, even the Agri-Fab is expensive.<sigh>

The minimum that I will go with will be a rear-tined, wheel-driven tiller.

So, anybody have experience with DRPower or one of the brick-and-mortar stores' equipment? I'm a little skeptical of buying something like this online...would rather be able to look somebody "eyeball-to-eyeball"...and if there's a problem it's easier to deal with someone locally. But, if folks have had good results with an online vendor like DRPower I could be persuaded to go that route.

Comments? Cub cadet users? Agri-Fab users? DRPower users? Husqvarna users? I've also seen some private-branded tillers so I'm interested in them, too....I don't own a shirt with an alligator on it. Big Grin

I just need some feedback so I can get something started. As for today's beautiful weather (it's one of the blue-ish skies I've ever seen) I'm sitting inside suffering with either strept throat (courtesy of my sweet 4-year-old granddaugher) or Coronavirus...I haven't been to China nor a major city so I'm opting for it being a gift from my granddaughter....how is it that kids can be sick as a dog and just keep happily playing while an old grump like me it cuts me down to my knees making even my hair hurt? Blinking

Anyhoo....feedback is most welcome!!!!
THANKS!!!
Ed (the missing gardener)

Cub cadet, first Cub I used/owned was a 135-hope I got the number correct. After moving into new area in 2015 , neighbor offered me, in 2016, to go 1/2 on his already owned cub with original cost-$600. First yr was great, but due to my failure of PROPERLY checking oil, engine failed in 2019. I replaced the cub for $600, it quickly had problems. First, the weld between the wheel shaft and the wheel cracked, making the wheel wobble. After mfg replacement, the other wheel did same. Mfg replaced both wheels & hubs. Next the tire went flat.
Based on the original neighbors cub, mfg reduced the size of the weld from about 1/4 inch to about 1/16-1/8 inch thick. Also, they started using tube tires--original was tubeless--I fixed with flat tire repair spray purchased at auto parts store. All 3 problems cost me about a total of 2.5 months use. After all repairs, have used the cub frequently with no problems.

Thanks, BrooklynStart, for the feedback. One of the tillers I'm looking at is the Cub Cadet RT65. I appreciate you mentioning the weld area. So, the bad wheels were on a 2019 model? Could you tell if the weld seam was better on the replacement wheels?

Ed

Do not know what yr the model was, it was the replacement I purchased in 2019. It was not an in stock unit, it took about 2 weeks to be ship to vendor.

I used the tiller today for about 30-45 minutes, included area previously tilled and area not tilled in over 5 yrs--purchased house 5 yrs ago from builder. Never tilled area was about 6'x6, included rocks, 3-5 inches in diameter--previously tills area also had rocks. Have used the replacement wheel hubs for a 15'x 20' never tilled area late in 2019. From what neighbors told me, the lot was leveled about in 1990s. Some fill included small pieces of asphalt and concrete, less that 3" thick 7"x7". Have had no problem with the replacement wheel/hub--only with the tire tube. Attached is picture of replacement (weld appears much better, after relooking at it when taking photo, the original 2019 weld must have been much less than 1/8" . The one the neighbor purchased had a weld that formed a slope of near 5/16" between the wheel and the hub:


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I think someone goofed with the weld on the first wheels. That is a very high-torque area and I'm glad to hear that the weld has been beefed up. What size tire is on your tiller?

Be sure to check the air pressure in the tires before using the tiller. If you apply torque to an under-inflated tire it could cause the tire to spin/slip on the wheel. If this happens it can cause the tube to spin with the tire and pull the valve stem inside the tire. When that happens you can't reach the valve stem to add air and about the only option is to stick something with a sharp point into the valve stem hole and puncture the tube so the tire can be completely deflated and repaired. One thing you can do to prevent the valve stem from disappearing into the tire is to find an appropriated sized metal nut and screw down onto the rubber stem, this will usually stop the stem from being pulled inside the tire but it can also cause the valve stem to be ripped off of the tube is there is excessive tire slippage on the wheel. The best insurance is to check the pressure before use and if it's really low (or flat) to have it repaired. Tubes work ok in this type of equipment but they do require the operator to monitor the pressure. Matter of fact, in some situations tubes can be better in that grit and dirt won't get into the bead area and cause slow leaks if the tire is tubeless. Unless you run over a nail or puncture the tire in some way, the tube will work fine with proper air pressure. If you do get a nail in the tire it will need to be broken down and repaired...tire will need to be patched if the hole is big and the tube will need patching or replacing...you can't simply put a repair plug in a tire with a tube in it...

Btw, tire sealants don't work well in situations where a tube is used...they may appear to work for a while, but sealants are intended for tubeless tires....also, some of the sealants are intended for temporary use and can actually corrode the inside of the wheels. Tires with sealants used in them also pose repair problems.
The chemicals used are very "slick" with some of the chemicals are almost impossible to clean. Even with the repair area being cleaned with a solvent and buffed down, the chemical residue can still cause the patch to not adhere well in some instances. Tire sealants are good for emergency auto use when there's no other option or for non-highway tires that are subject to repeat punctures...but these tires have to be tubeless tires for the sealant to work well.

FWIW.

Ed, agree with your analysis of under inflation. Have been more careful with inflation. I believe that was the cause of my tire failure. I have a spare tire tube on hand. I purchased it just before trying the tire sealant. Sealant is currently working OK. When tire craps out again, will install new tire tube. Thanks for your input re:sealant on tube tires info on corrosion. If needed, will have to bite bullet & get new tire/hub assembly; if I remember correctly the price was $35 when weld crack first occurred.

When you do replace or repair the tube simply wash the wheel and tire out really good. If you break it down yourself be sure you have the wheel assembly somewhere where "gunk" isn't going to hurt/stain anything...it can be messy. Have you mounted one of these small tires before?

If there's any rust or corrosion showing on the inside of the wheel scrub it down with a wire brush and put a couple of layers of spray paint on it. Pay close attention around the stem hole area. At some point in time there will most likely be some rust between the tube and wheel anyhow due to condensation between them...no biggie. The sealant, though, can take it to a point of messy corrosion if left in there long enough....plays heck on aluminum and chrome plated wheels, too.

weaved ground cloths come in many diameters. They are uv stable and last for decades. If you grow on top of them your plants will increase in size by a third to a half produce more flowers, seed, fruit and grow faster. Example: You can plant in cinder blocks on top of the cloth adding and confining the necessary humus for your seedlings or transplants in the blocks. You can then space your plants as needed for best exposure to the elements and each other.
You don't disturb the soil biome this way which is mighty important, so no weeds seedlings preferring disturbed ground will emerge. You will need much less water because the fabric will contain it daily each morning directly under the planting. Ground fabric is a good way to use oil. No repairs necessary. Much less wear and tear on you. This is not an idle suggestion. Been doing it for decades. Happily.

Thanks for the feedback, @frogfan. Down here in south Alabama I don't think the ground cloth would work very well, maybe I'm wrong. But, the fire ants would *love* to have a roof over their heads to build their kingdoms beneath. Even compost piles are a problem due to these beasts invading the piles. I would love to do a permanent bed type of garden but I really don't think that's feasible here. Everything,...weeds and moving critters/pests grow rapidly down here. We use some weed barriers around the edge of the house in places but it doesn't take long before the bahia grass and other Auburn Experimental Station candidates poke their green heads through. With the heat and humidity down here it's a race to get plants outgrowing the "other" plants and to get them to grow large enough so they can withstand the onslaught of the legged critters nibbling on them. My garden is a small one, compared to most around my area, it measures something like 55'x25' and I (try to) grow peppers, tomatoes, southern peas, okra, cucumbers, melons, sweet'taters, etc.,. Oh, and zinnias!!!!! The butterflies *love* the zinnias!!!

It sounds like you may be located further north than where I'm at. Do you grow lots of vegetables? I do envy the compost piles and lack of fire ants that my norther neighbors have!!!

Thanks again for the feedback!
Ed

Entomgenous nematodes kill fire ants, in fact all ants. Been doing it for years. Knocks out the queen the workers the soldiers and the brood. One nematode can travel 100 ft in any direction at the point of release. It only takes one to kill, but the dead ant will produce many more in a few days. Its a dominos effect that drives itself. The square foot recommendations by the suppliers is uniformed at best. They don't use the product. Ground cloth works down there work just fine. You want the weaved version, not the ones that look like window screen. You can keep ants out of compost piles too by using the proper plants to facilitate the compost aging.

Dewitt is an excellent choice. There are many versions. I go for longevity. I have cloth still in use since 89. Why bust your buns if you can do it with less effort and the beneficial effects outlined is rarely witnessed, because it is not being used in this way. You don't die in your tomatoes like the "Godfather". Right?

I see you're in zone-5 so you have fire ants up there? I didn't think they range that far north because of the cold.

I may give the nematodes a try...again. I actually ordered some from a company in Texas back in the 1990's to try. Back in the days of snail-mail ordering. I got ripped off by the company and never received the nematodes.<sigh>

Your environment and mine are two different ones. We have a most, humid environment with few freezes during the winter and may days in the 60, 70, 80 degree ranges. Nothing shuts down completely, only pauses for a thought. Anything laying on the ground that can be considered a "shelter" the ants will build colonies beneath. Even a 2x4 laying on the ground will usually support a small colony. It's really the pits. But, in the garden most of the ants are really of a non-biting species. I can pick peas and okra (which sometimes will be covered in ants) and not get bitten even with ants crawling all over my hands...if I get one trapped, say in the bend of my arm, they will bite but not sting. Naturally with these ants come aphids...it's a battle...usually with soapy water.

But, like I said...I might try the nematodes again...thanks for the suggestion.

There are better suppliers now on nematodes. And some will work better a cooler temps so fall is an option for treatment too. If you fish with worms, you now how they smell when they go bad. Same for nematodes. Take a whiff. They should smell like a good friable soil. Keep them in the crisper in the original container in a gallon freezer zip lot. In with the celery and carrot etc. They will last a year easy.

I posted this elsewhere, but to keep folks from finding this thread and wondering what I ended up doing you can get the full story here (or, coming soon to a theater near you!)... The thread "Garden tiller suggestions, recommendations, reviews, offers of gold bullion, ???" in Vegetables and Fruit forum


Ed

Front end tiller rotary best for clay. Mine used by small farmers in the Mississippi flood plains. You can attach various alternative single plow blades and rakes onto the rear, quack is the most trouble, gets caught up in the rotary front. Adjustments all clevis pins. Easy to handle.