Viewing post #533211 by Danty

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Jan 3, 2014 12:04 AM CST
Name: Dan Tyson
Simi Valley, Calif. (Zone 8b)
Hi everyone,
I got a message from James (Txtea) about this thread and thought I would drop in.

Pb66 -- I applaud your efforts to grow roses from cuttings. I have spent literally years in learning how to do it well. I have killed hundreds of cuttings -- so just realize there is a learning curve.
From the text and photos you posted I would definitely say your soil media is TOO WET!

Also, if the most of the cuttings' leaves have either turned yellow and/or fallen off - AND - the stems have turned black then the cuttings are not going to recover or do well.
But even if the leaves have all fallen off as long as the stems are green and turgid (holding moisture) there is still a 50/50 chance they will eventually root. But that is not the ideal to shoot for.

Now I want to say right here that I have come across dozens of methods of rooting roses -- and each one has their proponents.
Just like every other aspect of growing roses (watering, soils, fertilizing, etc) every grower eventually settles on a method that works for them.

That being said I have found there to be certain CONSTANTS.
These are:
* Taking and rooting cutting at the optimum time of year for your area. In my Southern Calif locale that is from mid-April to the end of October. I know someone in Texas who gets her best results in Winter -- but she has a greenhouse.
* Using a high quality, fast-draining soil media. My mix of choice is Sunshine #4 Advanced. Here's a link to an online source: http://www.hydroponics.net/i/1...
Moisten the soil media lightly and squeeze out any excess water with your hands. The media should be lightly damp -- NOT soggy. If you cover your cuttings (see below) then you won't ever have to water them again while they are in the process of rooting.
* Warm temperatures -- from the mid 60's to the high 70's. That is indoors assuming you are propagating indoors as I do.
* High humidity. I use a grow tray with a dome over the the cuttings. Its like a mini greenhouse. Here's a link: http://www.hydroponics.net/i/1...
* Indirect light. Soft indirect sunlight is good. I use a fluorescent grow light.

That's it.
If you followed the above I would guarantee you would improve your success with cuttings exponentially.

Pb66 -- here's my recommendation to salvage the cuttings you have.
1. Save just the ones with green stems and/or some green leaves.
2. Dip the cuttings again in Dip 'n Grow at the 1- to -10 dilution rate.
3. Re-pot the cuttings in a quality media as above.
4. Cover the cuttings either with a dome or with inverted clear plastic cups over each pot.
IMPORTANT -- if you cover your cuttings you won't ever have to water them again until they have rooted. I have had cuttings in my grow trays for three months and more in media that was just moistened at the beginning.

Just a few more comments:
-- In the height of my propagation season (June to September) my cuttings will root within 10 days to 3 weeks.
At that point they get transplanted into a coldframe outdoors.
-- Some rose varieties are much easier to root than others. Generally miniatures are the easiest, followed by polyanthas and floribundas. Hybrid Teas, Climbers and OGR's are the hardest -- in my experience.

Here's a link to my Photobucket site with a few photos of my propagation setup.
http://s555.photobucket.com/us...

Let me know if this helps -- or just is too much information to digest all at once.

Dan

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